Introducing gourmet food unique to Hokkaido

What are the characteristics of Hokkaido's food culture?

A fusion of cultural influences. I was struck by the similarities to my home state of Wisconsin. There is Midwestern style farming, which focuses on crops such as corn and potatoes and dairy farming. During the Meiji Restoration starting in the 1870s, the Japanese government asked agronomists from central Europe and midwestern America for advice on Western farming methods. This is because these regions have similar climates and topography to Hokkaido. So there are old German beer halls like the one in Milwaukee, and beer halls that serve German potato salad. It's like home, but in Japan. And, of course, there is also the important influence of the indigenous Ainu people, who migrated from northern Russia centuries ago. Therefore, I wanted to focus on Ainu cuisine. I spent time at the National Ainu Museum and spoke with many Ainu chefs and cooks, as well as businessmen and artisans.

How do landscapes and climate affect cuisine?

As a region with lots of snow and volcanoes, its ecosystem contributes to the flavor of the seaweed, producing the highest quality kelp. This also means delicious seafood such as crab, scallops, and salmon. Hokkaido's seafood is featured on the menus of high-end restaurants across the country, but it's even fresher and cheaper locally.

As Hokkaido is a rice-growing region, it is not too hot or humid, so it imports large quantities of rice not only from other parts of Japan, but also from China, South Korea, and Taiwan. Even before the Meiji Restoration, the Ainu traded seafood and kelp for rice. Naturally, native grains and wheat have also played an important role in cuisine. Wheat ramen is one of Hokkaido's signature gourmet foods because it contains a lot of wheat. Hops grow wild along railroad tracks, and the availability of hops and barley explains products like Sapporo Beer. To increase the amount of rice, grains such as millet and adlay, and legumes such as soybeans are used.

What other important ingredients are found in local cuisine?

Plants such as wild garlic and butterbur are often foraged. The latter has huge leaves (according to Ainu folklore, they were used as a hideout for korpokkuru), which are baked, dried, or put into soups. There are also sweets made with Hokkaido milk and butter, such as milk butter ice cream and milk bread, as well as chocolates, biscuits, cheesecakes, and crackers made with locally produced wheat. Because they are made with natural ingredients, they are also popular as souvenirs. There are many delicious fruits such as melons, strawberries, and grapes that are so sweet that you can't believe it's winter. Colorful flower garden plants such as lavender are used to flavor everything from shaved ice to coffee.

Are there other cultural traditions that influence Hokkaido's food habits?

Spirituality. In Ainu culture, kamuy (spirits) exist within specific living things, elements, and even tools, and there are also kamuy who control living things. When obtaining food from the environment through hunting, gathering, fishing, etc., it is important to thank the appropriate kamui. This leads to respect for the crop. For example, wild garlic can be cut above the roots to ensure that it grows back. This is also of practical importance in areas where there is little vegetation for more than half the year.

What is the most memorable dish you have enjoyed in this area?

Kushiro's Washo Market uses dozens of types of seasonal seafood to create amazing breakfast dishes such as seafood bowls. I love Izumiya Restaurant's spaghetti cutlet. In the evening, small plates of grilled local seafood are served at the robata restaurant. Zangi (Hokkaido-style fried chicken) and curly noodles in a light soy sauce soup with lard are also Kushiro specialties.

Traditional Ainu cuisine and fusion plates are recommended at the Ainu village of Lake Akan. In Abashiri, which used to be a former prison, the old prison menu is served for lunch at the cafe in the museum, and it is delicious. Another must-try is chanchanyaki, a fisherman's dish of salmon grilled on a griddle with cabbage, bean sprouts, and onions.

How is Hokkaido's food scene changing?

Opportunities to learn about Ainu cuisine are increasing. The National Ainu Museum offers cooking classes and also has a small farm where traditional crops are grown. There are also several Ainu restaurants. In 2005, there was only one Ainu restaurant in Sapporo that was run by his parents, but it closed two years later because it was not popular. Although there are some issues with the appropriation of Ainu art and ornaments, it is great to see a renewed interest in Ainu food culture. I hope you will try the Ainu recipes in this book. It's all easy and delicious.