In the Congo, the two have a cultural movement of the atmosphere association and elegant people (Sape), known as the “Sapeer,” which combines fashion, culture and social resistance. It was primarily rooted in the Democratic Republic of the Congo (DRC) and the Republic of the Congo, but the movement is now spreading around the world through the Congo migration.
As a researcher, I studied Tharp in its cultural, social and symbolic aspects.
Sape is more than a fashion trend. Below are five important things you need to know about this move:
1. The history of sape
Sape first appeared in Brazzaville and later in the colonial era in Leopoldville (now Kinshasa). This move wasn't merely about fashion. It served as a way for people to express their worth and respect in a negative or diminished context. Over time, it also became a subtle yet powerful form of resistance to colonial rule.
Junior D. Kanna/AFP Getty Images)
This process continued after independence. It became a symbol of resistance to dictatorship, especially under the administration of President Mobutu Sese Seko of Zaire (now Dr. Congo). He insisted on rejecting Western clothing in favor of traditional clothing, but Tharp stuck with it as a countercultural statement.
This movement expanded to Europe in the 1970s and 1980s with the Congo movement. Sapele reinterpreted European fashion – often incorporating vibrant colors and quirky details to transform style into a tool of subversion. From the beginning, we were attracted to diverse influences, including European culture, but we began to clearly create Congolese styles.
By adopting colonialist clothing, the young Congos assigned symbols of power and social status, hijacking them to assert their own identity. Thus, tharp became a means of elevating the value of Congolese culture under imposed cultural control.
2. SAPE rules
Sape is often compared to dandyism in Europe in the 19th century. This is a 19th century fashion trend born in England for men who aim to be refined and elegance. Sapele embodies a contemporary African version of this tradition with its preconceived notions with designer clothing, bold colours and magician elegance.
For them, tharp is more than just a way of dressing. It is a philosophy based on several fundamental principles: expression of identity, exploration of excellence or refinement, cultural and social resistance.
“Suppologies” impose strict rules. These include respect for the colour trilogy. This means that costumes with more than three different colors (to ensure harmony and avoid discrepant color combinations), maintain strict garment hygiene and commit to constant elegance It is stipulated. For Sapele, appearance is a powerful way to make an impression and stand out in environments that are often defined by hardships.
The elegance of a dress extends to action, not only to expensive clothes. Sapele has a certain attitude. It uses sophisticated language and refined gestures to maintain an attitude of politeness and respect. Some of their public attitudes reflect some of the European dandies, such as specific walking, and fragmentary, often used to emphasize outfit details, such as clothing, shoes, and socks. He bends down slightly at the step. Their movements and how they speak are just as important as the clothes they wear.
This performance aspect makes the sarp a true living sight. At the Sapeurs gathering, participants compete for elegance and creativity and strut on the runway. This changes the streets where they come together and everyone gathers on an open stage where they can express themselves and showcase their style.
3. Expansion via the diaspora
The sarp movement is not limited to the towns of Brazzaville and Kinshasa. It evolved into a global phenomenon, first spreading into the Congo diaspora in Paris. It then expanded to other European cities where these migrants reside, such as Brussels. The movement has reached American cities like New York and Montreal.
For Congolese people living in Western countries, tharps are a way to reconnect with their roots and assert their identity in often challenging situations. This allows these members of the diaspora to create positive identities at a time when discrimination and social instability are common.
In major European cities, SAPE serves as a way to resist social invisibility. Congolese immigrants are often pushed into society's margins, using tharps to make themselves visible, wearing gorgeous costumes to focus on their presence, and assert their place.
Thus, tharp is a form of social protest, a way that goes against the expectations of the host society.
4. The role of music
An important factor in the success and global perception of the Tharp movement is its strong connection to popular music in the Congolese.
Artists like Papa Wemba and Auras Mabele have played an important role in promoting “Sape.” They incorporated that aesthetic into their public persona and performance. In France and Belgium, Papaemba concerts have become a major event for the Congolese community. These concerts provided an opportunity to showcase and celebrate the Sape movement.
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Popular Congolese music serves as a means to spread the ideals of sape, and has popularized this lifestyle as a symbol of success.
In the world of popular music in the Congolese, Tharp has risen to the position of religion, Kitendi, the “religion of fabric.” This religion has a pope, a high priest, a priest, a priest, and countless dedicated followers.
Often called the “King of Sape,” Papa Wemba was a charismatic figure who skillfully combined music and fashion to create a powerful cultural identity. All the outfits he wore were meticulously chosen to embody the elegance and fame of the Tharp.
read more:
Papa Emba: Music King of the Society of Atmosphere and Elegant People
By wearing clothes from a well-known brand, Papa Wemba has made Tharp a symbol of success for many young Congoes. He also contributed to the export of Tharp across African borders.
5. Protect the dignity of the poor
Tharp is marked by an interesting paradox. It combines gorgeous clothing with a gorgeous lifestyle with often unstable living conditions. For many sapeles, elegance is a goal that prioritizes material comfort. Sapele invests a large portion of his income in designer clothing, and sometimes undermines the quality of his daily life. This sacrifice is considered necessary to maintain its position within the Sapeer community.
Patrick Kovarik/AFP via Getty Images
With sapeles, vision and awareness are paramount. An invisible “sapele” will stop becoming a “sapele.” This emphasizes the complexity of movement.
Sapele sees himself as a crownless king, a street nobleman who uses his appearance to challenge traditional ideas of wealth and status. Through Sape, they destroy traditional social hierarchies and emphasize that elegance and personal values are not merely linked to economic means. Instead, these qualities are defined by their ability to stand out through style, creativity and charisma.
