When you think of Greece, you probably think of beautiful beaches, endless sunshine, and the warm Mediterranean Sea. But the stunning mountain region, dubbed the “Switzerland of Greece” by many, including local publication Greekreporter, is far less explored.
Hidden in the center of the country, Agrafa has a monastery built into the rock and views to admire. Three rivers – Achelos, Agraffiotis and Megdovas – wind through the region, cutting through rocky mountains covered with a blanket of rocky forest. You could be forgiven for thinking you're in the heart of Bavaria.
With no major towns or cities, the region's population is just 11,000 people, scattered in small villages that cling to the sides of the mountains. Tourism is an important part of the local economy, but you won't see anything like the crowds you'll encounter in other parts of Greece.
The name Agrafa literally means “unwritten” in Greek and is named for its remoteness and challenging terrain. That is, it was too difficult to record on the first map of the world. The invaders were wiped out in 1823 by a band of just 800 Greek warriors, and even one of the few areas of Greece that did not fall under the control of the Ottoman Empire.
Although the area was occupied during World War II, Agrafa was also the first position in Greece to be liberated from the Nazis, and in August 1943, rebel forces drove Hitler's troops into the area. The people of Agrafa are fiercely proud of their heritage. But it welcomes visitors eager to share the wonders of the front door – the landscape and the region's history of rebellion and resistance.
The highest peak is Tymfristos, which reaches 2,315 m above sea level. The road requires careful navigation, winding through mountains and along the edges of deep canyons. It's not uncommon to turn sharp bends without knowing what awaits you on the other side.
No trip to the Greek countryside is complete without a visit to a monastery. Agrafa boasts many hidden gems in its forests and mountainsides. In the last century, many people born in the region left to seek work in major cities in Greece and elsewhere in Europe. A large community of Agrapha is still found today in Charlotte, North Carolina.
The region's economy relies heavily on timber sales and agriculture, and the construction of the Plastilas Dam in the 1950s created many jobs for local people. The project was the brainchild of Nikolaos Plastiras, Prime Minister of Greece between November 1951 and October the following year, himself a native of Agrafa.
How do I get to Agrafa?
The nearest airport is Preveza International Airport, where transportation can be arranged for the 91-mile journey to the area. Flights are available from most major UK airports.
If you're feeling a little more adventurous, you can take a bus from Milan to Lucinge, Albania, on a 32-hour, 1,800-mile journey through France and Italy via Eurotunnel. Greek kardítsa. Please note that these bus services only operate 1-2 days a week. Once you reach Karditsa, you will need to arrange a taxi or car for the final 40 mile journey.
Anyone who chooses to drive will face a 28-hour journey, passing through France, Belgium, Germany, Austria, Slovenia, Croatia, Serbia and North Macedonia before heading to Greece.
