I've never seen as many private jets as I lined up at Aspen Airport (Image: Chris Granet/Getty Images)
The guide was pretty clear: “Law both hands on the handlebars. Don't look around. Don't take a photo.”
But I couldn't help myself. It was all too beautiful and we had to film a video of the spectacular alpine landscapes surrounding us. While freewheeling from the Maroon Bell, the twin summit behind the twin town is still stuck with the last traces of winter, late June.
This part of Colorado's Rocky Mountain is well known for skiing and winter activities, but in the summer it becomes a playground for those who want to explore lands that are no longer hidden by the white ones.
I flew out of Denver and drifted through the snowy mountains, leaving the state's capital, bathed in the evening sun. A line of private jets line the runway at Little Aspen Airport. I've never seen that much. Again, this is one of the richest regions in the United States, owning up to 12.5 billion yen in assets. Most visitors seem to be rich or “ambitious.” Think southern France or southern Dubai.
Our hotel was a cool W in the heart of Aspen. It was near the cable car station. It was as modern and trendy as the other WSs I visited, but it was smaller in scale, less flash and more comfortable. After it was fresh, I joined the tour group at the rooftop bar and rolled up a cocktail as the Golden Rays kissed Mount Aspen and the sun set.
Rooftop terrace at W Hotel Aspen (Image: Double Hotel Aspen)
The drinks were drained and we set out for dinner from the quaint, lush streets of Aspen. After the silver boom ended, Aspen's fate sank and only recovered after it developed into a ski resort in the mid-20th century. I found it a little difficult to walk. alcohol? No, 8,000 feet altitude (the thin mountain air won't make me breathless for the next few days).
The Atmospheric Steakhouse No. 316 was dimmed with cool old waist chic decorations. My filet steak was cooked to medium rare perfection and washed away with a spicy margarita.
The nasty jet lag ended the frivolity, knocking me out by 11pm and woke up at 3:30am. At least that meant I would have breakfast first. I had elk sausages and eggs – my first taste of majestic beasts still roaming the area – strong, smokey, and as tasty as they are handsome. Poor elk.
Luxury retailers and restaurants in the historic ski resort town of Aspen (Image: Getty Images)
Morning activities included a visit to the cool Aspen Museum with six galleries, running up the valley through the Pretty Wetlands (power assisted pedals with Godsend) and a visit to the cool Aspen Museum with six galleries of contemporary art.
We had lunch at the rooftop restaurant of the museum. The food may have been bland, but the views of Mount Aspen were just as breathtaking as the stairs there.
All the locals we passed and met that day were incredibly friendly, giving us a way with wide smiles and happy halos. Despite being very upscale, aspen was not the pride that one might expect from similar British and European resorts.
Aspen and Colorado are breathtakingly beautiful (Image: Chris Granet)
After lunch, we read the souvenir shops carefully. The highlight was Kemo Sabe, a western-themed store selling custom cowboy Clobber. As expensive as cool – the hat averaged $1,000. I saw a simple leather hat band for $8,776. Certainly, isn't anyone that enthusiasm?
The dinner, which maintains a Western theme, took place at Hotel Jerome, a spectacular building built in the 19th century as a rival to London's Savoy. Its bars and restaurants exuded a more gentle West charm, but the seven-course tasting menu was sadly lacking. Still, the cocktails were great and the history was obvious.
The grandeur continued as we roamed around for Emmylou Harris' concert towards the nearby Wheeler Opera House. I've never heard of her, and the 77-year-old 14-year-old Grammy-winning folk singer embarrassed my ignorance as her seductive voice resonated around the handsome Victorian-era hall.
Private jets line the runway at Aspen Airport (Image: Getty Images)
After another night of jet lag cartail sleep, I take the cable car to the top of Mount Aspen and am pleased for an outdoor yoga class with tired limbs stretched out overlooking the mountain.
Lunch was back at Ajax Tavern next to the cable car station. Its signature truffle fries were great, but the signature double beef burger was pretty average.
That sunny night we moved down the valley to Snowmass 15 minutes down and stopped by the rodeo. But this wasn't just a rodeo, this was a snowmass rodeo. There are many cowboys and girls with Cuban heels sporting Kemosabe hats and designer sunglasses. Still, it felt realistic, with perky family and smiles. The event was a mixture of children's sheep riding (yes, really), bull lassos and barrel races, and culminated in bull riding.
Colorado's breathtaking chestnut bell (Image: Getty)
Snowmass Village itself has a different vibe from Aspen. Here, the resort is built around skis, and not the other way around, rather a network of trails and Pistes covers the huge mountains of snowmass.
In summer, the forested slopes are paradise for mountain bikers, with over 50 miles of trails. As we rode the gondola up to the elk camp side of the mountain, we saw them bombing and stirring the trail. It's fun, but we got the thrill from The Breathtaker Alpine Coaster, a forest roller coaster where you speed downhill with toboggans.
There is a chairlift from the cable car terminal to the top of the elk camp. Sadly, it was cold and rainy, with a view of the chestnut bells covered in clouds.
Rooftop lounge area at W Hotel Aspen (Image: Double Hotel Aspen)
Pizza pit stop fueled us for a descent into the Aspen tree forest above the village. The afternoon sun pounded the silver bark and cast a long shadow. The birds chirping and the after-rain aroma felt magical.
Snowmass' nightlife is more calm than aspen. We ate at Aurum, a luxury Mediterranean/American fusion restaurant. This is even more amazing steaks and cocktails – and not only the best food of the trip, but also the Japanese spots with the best Japanese food I've ever tasted.
Zane's and The Tavern are popular pubs. The former is a modest sports bar, while the latter is packed with wild young revelers.
Our final morning began with the bike getting off the maroon bell. The views of the twin peaks towering over the untouched, maroon lake were the most spectacular sights. And, mercilessly, it was a whole downhill return to Aspen.
Cowgirl Mariahurst carries the US flag as the US national anthem plays on Snowmas Rodeo (Image: AFP via Getty Images)
After such a breathtaking trip, in either sense, it was a fitting finale.