The taste of Teles – welcome the people behind the produce

There are few destinations where terroirs are reflected in the flavor. This southern part of Catalonia is home to some of the most diverse landscapes in the region with mountains, seas, beaches and wetlands, all of which play a role in shaping the local gastronomy. The waters of the Ebro River fed the land and nourished its bounty for centuries. Here, three prominent culinary figures share more about the area's specialization and the way the rivers shaped them.

1. Fran Lopez

Michelin star chef and owner of Villa Retiro in Xerta

Why does Telles's cuisine make it special?
A rich natural environment – from the arrows of Delta de Häble (water-filled rice fields) to the mountainous areas of Els Port Natural Park. This geographical diversity produces a variety of fresh, high quality ingredients and forms the basis for authentic cuisine that is deeply connected to the land and its traditions. Telles de Häble's gastronomy is in a constant process of growth and is recognized locally and nationally.

What is your favorite local specialization?
Aro (rice) is a symbol of Delta del Ebre and is grown in enormous amounts with arrows in this region. We sometimes use different types and different techniques to explore new ways to prepare traditional dishes, but we always maintain a high level of respect for produce. I also enjoy EEL, which was part of local cuisine of many generations. In the town of Xerta, visitors will definitely need to try out citrus fruits, especially the Xerta Orange, known for its outstanding quality and flavor.

How did the Ebro River shape the culinary landscape of the region?
The Ebro River is important not only because of its rich produce, such as rice and eel, but also because of its previous role as a transportation route. In the past, rivers have encouraged the distribution and exchange of local products, allowing people to access a wider range of ingredients, and enriching local cuisine. Without it, Ebre's terrifying history and gastronomy would be very different.

How do you describe your cooking style and how do local ingredients work in your dishes?
My cooking style focuses on produce from Delta del Ebre and I always use the most appropriate techniques to emphasize the unique quality of each ingredient. I respect the origins of each product, but I also incorporate a modern touch, looking for a balance between tradition and modernity. For example, Villa Retiro's menu includes dishes such as Romesco sauce, charcoal green pepper and Catalan-style cod with olives.

2. Toni Bertrand

Oil producers and owners of Horta de Saint Joan's Identified Edition Olive Oil

Could you tell me a little more about olive oil? What makes your products special and how are they affected by the land here?
We produce single wave olive oil made from one olive variety (cultivar). This means that each oil has unique flavour properties and provides a different experience. Local terroirs have had a major impact on our products. We are based in the Terra Alta region, covered by mountain ridges and have many organic farming practices. All of these conditions come together to create the olive oil with a distinctive tasting note.

Aside from olive oil, what's your favorite local ingredient?
Personally, I love vegetables cooked in a variety of ways – raw, sauteed, steamed – as well as lamb and fresh fish. I was able to eat these for the rest of my life! I also like rice. The good paella, made in Ebre style (with seafood and locally produced rice), certainly compares to Valencia's best performance.

Historically, the most important ingredient in the region has been saffron, but unfortunately this is very low these days. During the Middle Ages, saffron is said to have priced European saffron with saffron grown in Horta de Saint Joan. That meant that at the time the town had a lot of wealth and was a very strategic place of control.

These days, visitors should also try bot peaches, gandesa asparagus and local honey. There are also many new initiatives based on the fermentation of different sugars to produce either beer, mead or spirit.

What facts should visitors know about the village of Horta de Sant Joan?
Most people don't know that famous artist Picasso has spent twice in the village. For the second time here, he and his girlfriend, Fernande Olivier, actually stayed at my great grandparents' hostel, the enemy del Trumpet. With their Parisian dress and the way they mannerism, they must have experienced a considerable cultural shock here. As a result, his short stay in town produced many stories.

3. Albert Grassa

Owner of La Lapita Restaurant and Mussel Farm's Musclerium

Could you tell me a little more about oysters and mussels production in the Eblo Delta region?
Currently, there are 30 companies in the area that grow oysters and mussels. Together, we produce around 700 tons of oysters and 3.5 million mussels each year.

What makes your produce special and how is it shaped by the local ecosystem?
Here, the sweet waters of the Ebro River mix with the marine waters of the Mediterranean to produce a large amount of phytoplankton. This is a microorganism that is an important food source for mussels, oysters and other creatures of the Eblo Delta. This gives us produce that we really grow special flavors. When you eat one of our oysters, it's like tasting the Mediterranean – salty, fresh and elegant.

In addition to mussels and oysters, what are the must-see ingredients in the area?
Visitors should definitely try local rice grown across the Eblo Delta. The oils, salts and honey produced here are also worth noting.