Lake Como has long been a favorite escape for travelers seeking a mix of alpine beauty and Italian charm. The lake is dotted with pastel-colored villages, elegant villas and dramatic mountain backgrounds. It is also a short trip from Milan. The trains depart frequently from Milan Centrare and Como San Giovanni, with travel times ranging from about 37 to 47 minutes, with approximately 1 hour and 36 minutes drive.
We visited in early June, when the lake was the most idyllic during its peak season. At first it was nothing but a dream, but soon regretted choosing a place. My first impression of walking into Bellagio's busy ferry port was impressive. It was clear why it was called “Lake Como Pearl.” However, it soon became clear that Bellagio had been somewhat exaggerated by the clumps of Tiktok and Instagram reels that flooded my phone in the months leading up to my trip.
The town is located on a cape known as the Lario Peninsula in the southern part of Lake Como. It's breathtaking during the day. Even a horde of tourists don't feel overwhelming when navigating the winding cobblestone streets. However, when the sun sets, the atmosphere fades away.
Most restaurants remained open until 10pm or 11pm and closed surprisingly early at 9pm or 9:30pm.
After a whole day of exploring the lake, we craved a relaxing late dinner and a drink with a view. But Bellagio was already caught up in it.
Coming from Milan, when evening life is leaking into a bustling square, Bellagio felt strangely calm. In hindsight, it was probably naive to expect the same late-night European vibe in a small lakeside town. Nevertheless, we were disappointed with the early hospitality.
It was especially frustrating when the restaurant was later left open on the night we returned from other towns such as Renno and when the atmosphere was more relaxed, warm and welcoming.
Our day at Villa del Barbianello (home to several iconic Star Wars and James Bond scenes) concluded with a fun, late afternoon tutoring at Lenno.
Due to a tourist-oriented and sophisticated Bellagio-like place, the food did not meet expectations. We went through a series of rather inconspicuous dinners. Especially one night, I was spoiled by the extremely dry tiramisu offered by a host who had a strong opinion on the owners of the local Airbnb.
Some restaurant owners were kind, but they lend us umbrellas and plastic bags when we got caught up in a dramatic downpour, but most of the food felt overpriced and overwhelming.
The Bellagio had no flavor despite the food background. But there's something to say about the long queues at restaurants that keep us away from the most popular places.
It is the busiest, most tourist-saturated town on Lake Como, and feels much more commercialized than a quieter and authentic area. Even Varenna and Renno, equally popular with Bellagio, have a more rustic Italian charm.
That said, Bellagio is not without its appeal. Staying with the Airbnb host who lived on the site provided an excellent opportunity to practice speaking Italian, along with enjoying fresh fish cooked for us in the garden the morning after our fishing trip.
Another highlight was the authentic connection to the breathtaking scenery. The Bellagio boasts mostly panoramic views. It was similar to discovering San Giovanni Beach. It is a hidden treasure accessed by long, scenic walks (a lot of stairs).
By that metric, Bellagio is not accessible to fewer traveller visitors, past the first cobblestone streets that provide a gateway to the bustling port. Plus, the town lacks public transport, bar ferries, buses and some elusive taxis.
The slow ferry from Como to Bellagio is a must-see. It's a two-hour almost two-hour cruise through the charming villages of Tremezzo, Lenno and Cernobbio. At just 18 pounds, it is relaxing with the scenery and a long journey is absolutely worth it, but it makes it a little harder to accept that you're back in a drizzle-like British summer.
When you visit the ferry port, the ferry timetable to the rest of the lake is easy. A word of advice: first buy your ticket and then enjoy a drink at the restaurant across from the harbor while you wait.
Free snacks with aperol in the sun create a very comfortable cuing experience, but don't get too engrossed.
